At sunrise on Cambodia’s Tonlé Sap Lake, the water wakes before the land. Wooden boats piled with silver-scaled fish, baskets of fragrant herbs, and steaming bowls of noodle soup glide between floating houses.

Vendors call to customers perched on porches, their voices mingling with the soft splash of paddles and the low murmur of conversation.

This is not a market you walk to; it comes to you, carried on the tides.

Twice a year, the lake performs a rare hydrological feat by reversing the flow of its river. In the rainy season, monsoon waters swell Tonlé Sap to nearly five times its dry-season size.

When the dry months return, the water ebbs away, and the floating market follows the shifting shoreline like a moving plaza.

A Market on the Move

In Chong Kneas, a short boat ride from Siem Reap, houses, shops, and even a church rest on floating pontoons.

At dawn, the market stirs to life. Wooden boats laden with vegetables, spices, and household goods weave between homes. Vendors call out prices, pass items across the water, and prepare fresh meals over small charcoal stoves.

Some boats are floating cafés; others serve as mobile general stores stocked with tools, clothing, and school supplies.

Here, shopping is as much a social ritual as it is a necessity. Neighbors lean from porches to barter, share gossip, and exchange news.

The market itself drifts with the lake’s changing shoreline, always keeping within reach of its customers.

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